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Gentleman's Magazine 1900 part 2 p.359
valley, asked us the direction for Borrowdale. He had ridden up the valley, which ends in Wrynose Pass, and across the boulder strewn Blea Tarn Moor, but he was concerned at the sight of Rossett Ghyll, over which he fancied his track lay. He was, however, much relieved at having only to face the easier slope of the Stake. We last saw him leading his pony near the top of the climb.
More than once we have been all night in the mist - and one such occasion we particularly remember. Though clear when we started the tops were smothered in clouds, from which a fine rain descended before we reached the reservoir under Hill Bell, on our way to Kentmere High Street. Soon after we commenced the ascent, we were completely enveloped. The grassy path up which we had hoped to reach Thornthwaite Crag was lost, but the ascent of the scree required little extra energy. In about half an hour, during which we spread out to avoid the stones dislodged by those in front, my attention was called to a huge face of rock against which our progress had brought us. I shall not forget that council; in varying distinctness were eleven faces, some anxious, more reliant, one or two careless. Behind us was the abrupt rock-ledge with beards of misty rain crossing along its breast; below, a great scree which, in stones of all sizes interspersed with luxuriant parsley fern, shelved down into a great white blank. When we reached the column on Thornthwaite Crag, it was apparent that the mist was deep above us, and therefore no view of sunrise was possible. It was three o'clock, and very cold; the damp collected on our limbs as we rushed about at leap-frog; one of our party routed out some damp-looking timber from the ruins of an old hog-house, so we decided for a fire. To coax the wood to burn required unliimited patience, but after long and deft manipulation of moist paper and matches, a tiny flame came flickering through the dense curls of smoke. At six o'clock the light was much better, so we moved for home - except for two who elected to stay with the fire, which was now blazing merrily. It was particularly galling to me to hear a day or two later that a party, while we were shivering on High Street, had witnessed a magnificent sunrise from Scawfell Pike. They had climbed into clear weather soon after they left Eskhause.
The spending of a night by the waterside few people envy the angler, but in reality no one could wish for a finer experience than all night on Ullswater. Starting from Howtown, paddle slowly out into the middle of the lake and wait for the fish to begin biting, for you must try your luck at night-fishing, otherwsie your friends will believe you are thirsting for notoriety. Trout come on the feed
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