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Lonsdale Magazine, 1820, vol.1 p.75
Our limits will not allow us even to enumerate all the
pleasing objects in the vicinity of Ulls Water; a few
however we will hastily notice:-
Lyulph's Tower, built by the late Duke of Norfolk, "is an
excellent object from every place that commands a view of
it, and it has that nice degree of elevation from which the
lines of the lake appear in a most painter-like arrangement.
St. Sunday Crag, in the extreme distance, rears his head
high above his neighbours; from which, both ways, there is a
visible horizon most correctly picturesque." Another object
which he points out as particularly worthy of the Tourist's
attention, is Ara Force, not far from Lyulph's Tower. "A
wooden bridge stretches across the stream, and conduxt the
traveller by a circular route to the cascade. Here rocks, in
perpendicular and aerial perspective, recede from the eye to
a vast height; but the appearance, in some instances
terrific, is on others transformed into a solemnity of
beauty by trees, which, impending from the fissures of the
rocks, almost excluded the light of heaven."
As another subordinate station on the margin of Ulls Water,
he mentions Powley Bridge, at the opposite end of the lake
from Patterdale inn. He says "there is a good inn at Powley
Bride (sic)," commanding a view of Dunmallet, "a hill
covered with many woods." For those who have time, this is
perhaps the best place from which to visit Haws Water,
"which," he says, "either as a Salvator or a Claude, has
great attractions. Its magnificence may be appreciated by
passing from the foot to the head of the lake, and its
delicate beauties by looking down it. It is fine from the
carriage road, but infinitely less so from a horse road upon
the common a little above the carriage road. It is likewise
good from many situations in the inclosures between the
higher and lower roads."
After having attempted to transfuse a portion of that fire
which glows in his own bosom, into that of his reader, by
the description of many a terrible, many a pleasing scene,
he exclaims, "Can any one view these splendid scenes, and
rationally wish to contemplate the boasted prospects of
other countries, unless indeed it be for the purpose of
learning duly to appreciate those they may enjoy in
England?"
We shall conclude his description of Ulls Water with some
very beautiful observations which, Mr. Green makes on the
pleasures which the inhabitants of cities, will invariably
find amid this apparently inhospitable region.
"Human ingenuity cannot devise a method by which the
monotonies of life would be more pleasantly diversified,
than by such occasional jauntings. On any little eminence, a
tent might be placed in a moment, and from the larder and
bins of the carts, the refreshment could be procured at the
pleasure of the party. Mountain guides from their infancy
ought to be taught the clarionet, the bassoon, and perhaps
the flute, and even the horn, in order to gratify the
refined in musical feeling, with elegant and pathetic
soloes, duets, and trios; and 'in sweet echo' with the
plaintive tale, which being once well told would suffer
nothing by repetition, such music on ground artistically
classic, would produce mixed sensations little thought of
and less known. It is not in a crowd, in the bustle of a
regatta, or in that of the mirthful jig, that a cultivated
mind will find the greatest delight of which it is
susceptible; but in the silence of tongues as well as
elements, where the craggy excavations, during the time of
performance, shall be the only respondents, a richer treat
will be enjoyed, and pleasure refining on its
gratifications, shall rise to ecstasy."
After leading the Tourist to Penrith, Lowther Castle, Shap,
Shap Abbey, and a number of other places and curiosities,
our Guide conducts him back to Ambleside, in order to take
his departure for the town and lake of Keswick.
The traveller must now bid adieu to the many soft and sylvan
scenes, which have so often captivated his wandering fancy
in his numerous rambles round the vicinity of Ambleside, and
prepare to encounter the stupendous mountains of Helvellyn,
Saddleback, and Skiddaw. He will find his journey to Keswick
agreeably diversified with bold frowning hills and steep
rugged rocks, with many a pleasing vale between, sprinkled
with humble cottages, the habitations of peaceful industry -
the archives of ancient English manners.
The first object which will particularly attract his
attention, in his north-
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