Lonsdale Magazine, 1820, vol.1
p.76
|
|
|
|
|
previous page
next page |
||
|
Lonsdale Magazine, 1820, vol.1 p.76
[north]ward journey, is the neat little lake of Rydal; and soon after the delightful vale of Grasmere - a vale so fertile in the beautiful. Mr. Green's reflections here, breathe the very language of the lover of nature in her loveliest dress:- "The grand features of nature when happily congregated, are grateful to the sentimental mind; but in serene seasons, when not a breath of air disturbs the waters of the lake, how beautiful the reflections on its glossy bosom! - particularly when almost motionless clouds hang upon the mountains, or the receeding objects are swimming in celestial azure. Such is the scene which may be frequently enjoyed from the new room at the south end of the lake." The church is a pleasing object from every part of the valley. And "the church-yard, shaded by ancient pines and sycamores, is interesting to those who court silence and solitude. Some charitable stranger has lately added a mournful yew, a tree sacred to such situations." We could not perhaps present our readers with a more acceptable treat, than to follow our Guide through all the scenes of varied charms, which he describes in this - the richest of his journies. We shall however slightly notice a few, and refer to the volumes themselves for a more detailed description of scenes, where the Tourist would often be led to exclaim, "Ever charming, ever new, When will the landscape tire the view"" From Grasmere we are conducted by a road, which is itself a treat, to the romantic vale of Easedale. "This valley is charmingly picturesque, for, in every direction, the eye and the heart must feel that animated pleasure which arises from the contemplation of uncontaminated nature. If to him who has known sickness - as Gray sings - 'The meanest flow'ret of the vale, The simplest note that swells the gale, The common sun, the air, the skies, - Are opening paradise!' how exquisite the treat which the valetudinarian must experience while, rejoicing in the first days of renovated health, he gazes on scenes like those!" We are next conducted by a steep ascent to the top of Helm Crag, to two stones which, from their appearance to the spectator below, are called the Lion and the Lamb. Hence there is an extensive view over all the vales and lakes to a considerable distance "The stones on Helm" says our author, "appear as if they had fallen perpendicularly, for they rest on each other in every possible direction, forming deep and frightful fissures, and perhaps caverns which were never diligently explored." We move forward over the Raise to Wythburn Water, or Leath's Water, which is "formed into many beautiful bays;" and about the middle "a singular Alpine bridge, connecting two far out-stretching promontories, cuts the lake in two not very unequal parts." The greatest beauties of the place Mr. Green says, are seen from the farther side of the lake. "Looking across the deep black water of the lake, the huge Helvellyn, clothed with rocks and shiver of silver grey, and with a green but scanty herbage, is in high contrast to Bull Cragg, with his sombre and mossy shelved rocks, rising on the left." The vale of St. John, which several Tourists have described with all the warmth of Eastern metaphor, here presents "a most singularly interesting assemblage of the wild and the lovely: the road for more than a mile is seen wandering through sweet enclosures, luxuriantly embowered in native woods, which not only bedeck the valley, but travel up the rocky steeps. In this journey we skirt the foot of the "mighty Helvellyn," from whose summit, "the assemblage of mountains, lakes, extensive flats, salt water rivers, and seas, furnish the richest treat to the admirers of remote prospects, viewed from some favourite eminence." We are now to consider ourselves arrived at Keswick, another primary station of equal eligibilty with that of Ambleside. There two good inns here, the Royal Oak and the Queen's Head: post chaises and ponies are kept at each of these houses, to which are likewise attached experienced guides. In addition to the above, there ar eseveral (sic) other inns, well provided with beds and stabling, and many respectable furnished houses, and lodgings. There are coaches from Kendal, Ambleside, Penrith, Whitehaven, Carlisle, etc, passing regularly through the town. There are two museums in Keswick, well worthy of inspection - an extensive circula- |
|||
|
|
next page | ||
|
|
|||
Lakes Guides menu.