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Lonsdale Magazine, 1820, vol.1 p.77
[circula]ting library of well selected books.
Keswick is well calculated for a principal station, where
the Tourist may take up his abode, and from which he may
pursue the delightful amusement of making excursions to the
different objects of curiosity in the neighbourhood. A few
of these we shall briefly notice.
The first that Mr. Green leads us to, is Barrow Cascade,
"consisting of two falls; but the upper is artificial, and
creditable to the taste of the late proprietor, Mr.
Pocklington, who from its original channel diverted the
course of the stream, to a perpendicular excavation of the
rock over which the water, in a wet season, is hurled with
thundering impetuosity, to a circular basin, from which it
passes quickly to the top of the lower fall, whence, in
varied and elegant boundings, it is agitated to the
receiving gulph, in which it finds a temporary rest."
Another grand and imposing object to which we are conducted
is the Waterfall of Lowdore. "This magnificent scene, even
if waterless, fills the mind with reverential awe. Gowder
Crag, upon the left, broad, bold, and finely marked, rearing
its aged head to an enormous, and to the eye, a painful
height, overlooks the embattled projections of Shepherd's
Crag upon the right. The chasm through which the river
passes is immense, and in dry seasons the stones engorged by
it, subdivide and obscure its waters; but after incessant
rains the waterfall of Lowdore is sublimely picturesque."
"At a distance, Skiddaw appears smooth and verdant, and
several variously elevated eminences, being all unted by
Hogarthian curves, give it an easy, elegant, and
uncommon aspect, as seen from every part of the valley."
The lake of Derwent, with its surrounding hills, woods and
meadow ground, and enlivened by a number of beautiful
islands, bays, and promontories, is entitled to particular
distinction; and Mr. Green appears to have paid more than
usual attention to his description of the romantic scenery
around it. He concludes his description of the lake with the
following analysis of its beauties.
"One to whom the wilds of nature are new, surveys the
environment of Derwent water with rapture; but if asked why?
he finds it difficult to give a reasonable answer; for, not
being accustomed to analyze, he dwells upon the pleasures
produced by the whole, without attending to the deformities
of parts. The charms of this lake are owing chiefly to the
variety in the forms and distances in the surrounding
mountains, and to the gaps or portals, through which more
distant mountains are observed; all which at every step (but
particularly in a progress round the lake) present a
succession of the perspective aerial so delusive as not
unfrequently to call forth unqualified admiration, where
judgment and criticism ought not to be laid aside."
About Kesick and the head of the lake, there are several
stations to which custom has attached considerable
importance, though Mr. Green has pointed out a number of
others of greater interest, which but for him might perhaps
have remained unknown. One of the usual situations, which
has been always reckoned a fine view, is Friar Cragg, the
grand promenade of the natives, and the place to which all
strangers are directed, on their arrival in Keswick. "The
walk is amidst a grove of oak and fir trees. The path
through the wood to the resting bench at the end of it, is
creditable to the governors of Greenwich Hospital, (to whom
it belongs,) who have thereby not only afforded to strangers
an easy and amusing avenue to surrounding beauties, but a
renovating recreation to the inhabitants of the town." -
"From Friar Crag, after much rain, the waters of Lowdore may
not only be seen but heard; and, in the solemn stillness of
the night, the varied intonations of this and other falls,
vibrate refreshingly on the senses of the contemplative
visitant; either as witnessed during the darkness of the
moon, or when in full lustre she is mildly reflected on the
motionless waters, or as elongated on the eye from their
gentle agitations."
Another of these walks is to Cock Shot, which he thinks
might be rendered one of the greatest beauties about
Keswick, with a little judicious thinning of its wood. "Cock
Shot, from its vicinity to the town, its easy access, and
its numerous charms, (which, when unveiled, would be almost
unrivalled,) demands peculiar attention."
Strand Hagg is another of the situations which he notices,
as commanding
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